Voyaging for Vermeer:a trail guide to all 34 paintings of the Dutch master
Eight countries, 13 cities, 34 paintings. Sail through D.C. and New York and then cross the Atlantic with us, to discover the treasures of one of the greatest , most enigmatic painters in western culture.
Johannes Vermeer van Delft (1632-1675) is perhaps the most famous artist of the Dutch Golden Age. With his highly individual use of light and perspective to convey scenes of everyday life with startling intimacy and realism, his work continues to capture the imagination. Yet, when interpreted against the backdrop of a culture that was, at home, the most culturally progressive and liberal in 17th century Europe and yet was also one of the most imperialistic internationally, Vermeer’s work begs deep questions about our own western culture now. Such historical treasures of art which draw you in with their raw beauty and then force you to stay and think and feel beyond, are perhaps more important now in the 21st century than ever before.
Before you head out, consider getting a head start by visiting Jan Vermeer Van Delft, a site that offers descriptions of the complete works by Jan Vermeer Van Delft. View more than 130 images of Vermeer’s paintings and slideshows, his biography, eCards, user comments and more. Also consider JohannesVermeer.org, which also has a lot of great information.
New York
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Ave., New York
A favorite painting is the “Study of a Young Woman.” Like the more famous “Girl with a Pearl Earring,” this portrait is characterized by an air of conversational intimacy, with Vermeer’s signature treatment of natural day light. The eyes more than anything, though, have a crystalline clarity that invite a casual viewer to stay longer, like the eyes of another locking with yours across the dance floor. The Metropolitan Museum of Art contains a total of five Vermeers – the largest collection in the world. They are all located on the second floor of the museum in galleries 615 and 616.
• “A Maid Asleep” (c. 1656-57)
• “Young Woman with a Water Pitcher” (c. 1662)
• “Woman with a Lute” (c. 1662-63, currently not on view)
• “Study of a Young Woman” (c. 1665-67)
• “Allegory of the Catholic Faith” (c. 1670-72)
Nearby eats: Try French bakery Le Pain Quotidien for an array of French-inspired pastries and light meals.
The Frick Collection
1 East 70th St., New York
The girl looks at her viewer with what seems to be quiet frustration at the intrusion on her lute playing – what could have been so important in, “Girl Interrupted at Her Music,” that the man felt the need to barge in? This as well as the other two Vermeers are displayed in the collection's South Hall.
• “Officer with a Laughing Girl” (c. 1657)
• “Girl Interrupted at Her Music” (c. 1658-59)
• “Mistress and Maid” (c. 1666-67, currently not on view)
Nearby eats: For food and drink, the Central Park Boathouse has become an icon, with a deck overlooking the park’s famous lake.
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Rijksmuseum
Hobbemastraat 21, Amsterdam, Netherlands
One of the most extraordinary things about Vermeer’s “The Little Street” is that, despite depicting a 17th-century street in Delft, the scene looks as though it could be a modern day photograph. That is, until you know notice the period dress of the small figures cleaning the street. This as well as three other Vermeers are housed in the Rijksmuseum.
• “The Little Street” (c. 1658)
• “The Kitchen Maid” (c. 1658)
• “Woman in Blue Reading a Letter” (c. 1662-63)
• “The Love Letter” (c. 1669-70)
Nearby eats: For a tasty bite or a refreshing drink nearby, try Cobra Café or Café De Pijp.
The Hague, Netherlands
Mauritshuis
Lange Vijverberg 12, The Hague, Netherlands
“Girl with a Pearl Earring” is perhaps Vermeer’s most famous painting, especially after the film by the same title was made in 2003. Everything about the way Vermeer has painted the subject seems to imply something more than just a casual artist-model relationship. Her red lips glisten, half open as though ready for a kiss, while the pearl earring and her eyes reflect the light, shining with a sensuality that transforms them into windows to another place. The Mauritshuis’ collection is rounded out by two other Vermeers.
• “Diana and Her Companions” (c. 1653-54)
• “View of Delft” (c. 1660-61)
• “Girl with a Pearl Earring” (c. 1665)
Nearby eats: If you’re still in the mood for everything Dutch after seeing these masterworks, try Bodega de Posthoorn nearby, which serves authentic Dutch food and drink.
Berlin, Germany
Gemäldegalerie
Matthäikirchplatz, Berlin, Germany
With light streaming into the room, the sense of timelessness in Vermeer’s, “Woman with a Pearl Necklace,” stops you in your steps. The quality of the woman’s suspended motion, holding her pearls and staring into a mirror, begs you to ask questions of yourself as she surely must be doing with the reflection that stares back at her.
• “A Lady Drinking and a Gentleman” (c. 1658)
• “Woman with a Pearl Necklace” (c. 1664-65)
Nearby eats: After such intense concentration and thought, a little refreshment seems in order. Try the Hopfingerbräu im Palais, where beer, schnitzel and other traditional, German gastronomic treats are in no short supply.
Dresden, Germany
Staatliche Kuntsammlungen
Theaterplatz 1, Dresden, Germany
Full of voluptuous beauty, the “Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window” is a work which simply radiates while simultaneously inviting you into the painting. Vermeer’s use of light to illuminate the golden yellows of the drapery and the young woman’s dress, contrasted with the delicate translucence of her reflection in the window pane, make this painting seem as real as if you had just pulled back the drapes in your room to discover this most intimate scene. Both of museum’s Vermeers are kept in the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Picture Gallery).
• “The Procuress” (c. 1656)
• “Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window” (c. 1657)
Nearby eats: For a step back into Baroque Dresden, hit up Coselpalais Grand Café and Restaurant, located in the old city center, where light Saxon cuisine, sweet confections and coffee are served.
London, England
Buckingham Palace – Royal Collection
The Official Residences of The Queen, London
• “The Music Lesson” (c. 1662-65)
Nearby eats: There is no dearth of great restaurants and bars to stop at in the area, but may we suggest bbar, which is in the hub of London’s Victoria neighborhood.
Kenwood House
Hampstead, London, England
• “The Guitar Player” (c. 1670-72)
Nearby eats: You can follow your tour with lunch and a drink at the Brew House, located in the old servants’ quarters of Kenwood House.
National Gallery
Trafalgar Square, London
• “A Young Woman Standing at a Virginal” (c. 1670-72)
• “A Young Women Seated at a Virginal” (c. 1670-72)
Nearby eats: The gallery has a restaurant, espresso bar and café.
Vienna, Austria
Kunst Historisches Museum
Maria Theresien-Platz, Vienna
• “The Allegory of Painting” (c. 1666-68)
Nearby eats: Meixner’s is a nearby restaurant serving the best in traditionally-inspired Austrian cuisine.
Edinburgh, Scotland
Scottish National Gallery
The Mound, Edinburgh, Scotland
• “Christ in the House of Martha and Mary” (c. 1654-55)
Nearby eats: The museum houses the Scottish Café and Restaurant and Cup Cake Caffe.
Braunschweig, Germany
Herzog Anton-Ulrich-Museum
Museumstraße 1, Braunschweig, Germany
• “The Girl with the Wineglass” (c. 1659-60)
Nearby eats: X Trend Café Restaurant and Bar is nearby and offers a large variety of continental food and drink.
Washington, D.C.
National Gallery of Art
4th and Constitution Avenue NW, Washington, D.C.
The two Vermeers on view are located on the west main floor, gallery 50C.
• “A Woman Holding a Balance” (c. 1664)
• “A Lady Writing a Letter” (c. 1665; not on view)
• “Girl with a Red Hat” (c. 1665/1666)
Nearby eats: We especially recommend the Capital Grille for food and drink.
Paris, France
The Louvre
Musée du Louvre, Paris
• “The Astronomer” (c. 1668)
• “The Lacemaker” (c. 1669-70)
Nearby eats: As to food and drink – it’s Paris, so we aren’t too concerned you’ll go hungry or thirsty without our help. That said check out Harry’s New York Bar – Gershwin composed “An American in Paris” in the piano bar downstairs and Hemingway was no stranger to the place.
Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Städel Museum
Holbeinstraße 1, Frankfurt am Main
This is the sister painting to “The Astronomer.”
• “The Geographer” (c. 1669)
Nearby eats: The museum café is Holbeins, but we suggest Gennaro’s, a nearby Italian restaurant with a fantastic wine list by the bottle that is also eminently affordable.
Dublin, Ireland
National Gallery of Ireland
Merrion Square West, Dublin
• “Lady Writing a Letter with her Maid” (c. 1670, on loan to a temporary exhibition until 2012).
Nearby eats: Since you’ll have no problem finding beer or pubs to drink them, we’ve decided to recommend,Ely, a wine bar with a tremendous selection by the bottle and glass.
Boston, Massachusetts
The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
Boston, MA
On 18 March 1990,a pair of thieves disguised as Boston policemen broke into the museum and stole a total of 13 works of art, including Vermeer’s, “The Concert.” After worldwide searches, the museums offer of a $5 million reward and a documentary film (Stolen), the painting’s whereabouts remains unknown. Because Gardner stipulated in her will that the collection was not be added to or subtracted from, the frame of the stolen Vermeer (as well as the other works) still hangs, empty, wondering if its precious jewel might ever make it home.
