An insider's guide to Italy

Italy is magical, hip and historic all at once. Modernity and antiquity combine to create a country where religious figures receive Tweeted confessions and common folk watch HD television in 16th-century apartment buildings. We’re asking residents of the old country how they’ve made a life in a country rich in both culture and history.

The five most important phrases a foreigner should know in a bar:

“Un caffe’ per favore” If you want an espresso, you order a caffe’. Espresso is the method of making the caffe’

“Latte” is plain milk, not a caffe’ latte as is the norm in the US. Latte is for bambini (babies) or those with ailing stomachs.

"Un caffe’ per favore" "An espresso please."

 "Un espressino" A regional drink that is like a small version of a cappuccino with sweetened cocoa added to it.This will make you sound a like a local.

 "Una birra in due" One large bottle of beer divided among two glasses.Not only acceptable, it’s encouraged as a mode of sharing and sociability.

 "Il solito" "The usual." Beautiful words if ever I heard any and if you’re able to utter them to the barista, it means you’re a regular and a part of the local scene. Lovely.

The five most important phrases a foreigner should know at the market:

 "Quanto costa?” "How much?" Ask the price before you start considering or trying on an item.

"Mi prende per uno scemo?” "What do you take me for, a fool?" Haggling is normal, so don’t accept the first, higher price they quote you.

 "Posso provarlo?” "Can I try it on?" If you want to buy clothes in the "mercato," you’ll want to try it on, because you won’t necessarily be able to return it if it doesn’t fit. But to try it on you’re shoved unceremoniously into the back of the vendor's van and plunged into darkness when he slams the door behind you and left to feel like you're about to be the victim of a kidnapping.

 "Posso?” "May I?" Ask before you handle the produce at a market stall. Some vendors don’t let you fondle the fruit.

 "Mi fai uno sconto?” "Will you discount the price?" Even stalls or stores where the price seems fixed will often come down on the price. It can’t hurt to ask.

Five places people should absolutely go in your city, where only locals would know:

Because we have a pretty unknown region, almost everything is a “locals in the know” kind of place. Here a few of my favorites.

Caffe Tripoli
It’s a tiny joint in the nearby town of Matera tucked into a corner of the Piazza Veneto that serves up great aperitivi with nice little snacks, and delicious gelato. Don’t look for a glass display case; the gelato is embedded into the counter, old-fashioned style. Flavors are posted on a board on the bar.

The Volo dell’Angelo
The "flight of the angels" is a high-flying zipline that transports you at 120 km/hour between the two mountain towns of Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa. For thrill-seekers it’s a blast. For those afraid of heights, stroll the pretty streets of either of these magical towns.

The Black Sand Beaches of Maratea
Maratea itself is a jewel, a hill town that cascades down to the glittering Mediterranean Sea. The black sand beaches are an unusual feature, as are the grottoes along the cliffs where you can swim into one and out of another.

Cantina del Notaio in Rionero
A beautiful, traditional winery with an underground cantina that winds below the streets of the town, they will take you on a tour and then let you sample their world-class wines. A great way to spend an afternoon.

La Capannina - Antica Osteria Bantina in Banzi
Not far from Matera, this home-grown restaurant is absolutely worth a detour from surrounding regions in order to dine there. Regional specialties are lovingly and traditionally prepared and served up beautifully. And the prices are very reasonable. Start with the abundant antipasto that lets you sample several delicacies before moving on to the pasta. And then I dare you to make it to the meat course, much less dessert!

How your own national identity affects living abroad:

Being American has opened some doors for me here. First there is the curiosity factor; let’s face it, in a town of 600 souls, it’s immediately obvious that I’m an outsider, so they all wanted to stop me and talk to me. I got to know people really quickly. It made me approachable in a certain sense. My roots in this region made me acceptable. They saw that I have some facial features from this region and once they learned that I have some blood-line ties to the area, I was accepted quickly as a local. The fact that I’m an American and the only native English speaker in the area meant that I was in demand pretty quickly for those wanting to learn English. I was able to integrate pretty smoothly and quickly into the local community.

Other insider tips for travelers to Italy:

The region exists! Most people have never heard of Basilicata, and it’s a shame. It offers a taste of the “real” Italy – where old-world traditions continue, where people are hospitable because they want to be not because they’re trying to lure tourists, where natural beauty abounds, and where everything costs less than the tourist towns. It is a fabulous experience to get off the beaten path and explore these beautiful places!

Valerie Fortney-Schneider is an Italian-American travel writer who returned to her roots. She lives in a hilltop hamlet in the southern region of Basilicata where she selflessly samples local delicacies and tours hidden havens for the sake of travel writing, and started a website to publicize the beauties and offerings of her region. When not tapping away at her keyboard, she can be found sipping cappuccino, participating in grape harvests, or shooting the breeze with her fellow paesani. Find her at  My Bella Basilicata or follow her adventures on her blog, 2 Baci in a Pinon tree. Read about her journey in Italy.