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India's second-largest city is often seen as a gateway city rather than a destination in itself. Even its name is believed to mean "threshold". But travellers on cheap flights to Delhi who then connect to other places in India are missing a colourful, cosmopolitan and fascinating city.
While Delhi is one of India's boom cities, the disparity between the old and the new - and the rich and poor - is staggering. New shopping malls share the city with street markets, cows and handcarts and gleaming SUVs share the roads, and, from newly built flyovers, the domes of Mughal temples are visible.
Old Delhi is a must-see, with snaking alleyways, busy markets, the Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque, and the Red Fort.
New Delhi, built on the orders of George V, has the important government offices and Parliament of India as well as the colonial-era India Gate and Connaught Place, a bustling shopping and commercial district.
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Delhi has a continental climate with very hot summers and very cold winters. The summers are long, running from early April to October, and taking in the monsoon season. Temperatures can hit 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees Fahrenheit). Winter extends from November, plummeting in temperature around January. A cold wave from the Himalayas makes winter very cold. Average temperatures are about 4 degrees (39 Fahrenheit). Most of the rain falls between the months of July and September.
Peak Season:The best time to take cheap flights to Delhi is February-April when the city is blooming. August-November when the days are sunny and the nights are cool is also a great time to go. An added advantage are the many festivals that take place between September and March. These include Dussehra (September/October), Diwali (October/November), Christmas (December), Lohri (January) and Holi (March).
Off Season:The months of December-January can be gloomy and not the time to experience Delhi at its best. Also, mid-summer (May, June and July) is scorching with temperatures upwards of 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees Fahrenheit).
Travellers arriving on cheap flights to Delhi have a number of ways of getting downtown. There is a bus service to downtown Delhi that runs 24 hours a day. The journey time is about an hour. Air-conditioned coaches are also available and can be booked in the Arrivals Hall (Terminal 2). There are pre-paid taxi booths in the Arrivals areas of both terminals. Metered taxis and auto rickshaws are also available.
Stick to a car in Delhi if you want to avoid getting run over. Traffic is hectic, drivers have little patience with pedestrians and the few sidewalks that exist are poorly maintained and crowded. Avoid travelling in rush hour like the plague.
Old Delhi has winding, narrow streets that could be considered walkable, but beware of handcarts and people with heavy loads. They stop for no one. Your best bet for getting around is by taxi or by hiring a car and driver.
If you’re hailing a cab, always negotiate your fare before you board. You can ask to see the fare chart that drivers carry with them. It’s also a good idea to carry some change, since most drivers don’t carry any with them. If you’d rather hire a car and driver, check with a travel agency.
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Prem Kishore and Anuradha KishoreSimple yet accurate telling of more than 5000 years of India’s history.
William DalrympleThe Delhi resident chronicles the city, peeling back the layers of its history and revealing extraordinary characters such as eunuchs and descendants of great Moguls.
Mahatma Gandhi, ed. Louis FischerThis anthology of Gandhi’s writings reveals the spiritual leader's personal journey and self-growth.
Ahmed AliDeemed a classic, the novel is set in Delhi just after the War of Independence (1857) and tells the story of the life and times of an Muslim family in the now vanished old Delhi.
Vikram SethThis four-family saga (Mehras, Kapoors, Chatterjis and Khans) shines a light on the social and historical events during 1950s India.
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